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Tag Archives: north cascades
西雅图二:山河湖海
西雅图的水表面积占整个地区面积的46%。这里不但有森林,还有高远的大山,冰山融水的河流,静静的湖泊,和宽广的大海。树林接着树林,光线透不进来,幽深黑暗,尽头就是悬崖,而悬崖的下面,浪花拍打着岩石。难怪《暮光之城》的Bella在这里会碰到吸血鬼、狼人和熊,这些地方不住这些种族,还住什么呢? 西雅图至今有许多印第安人保护区,据说他们有自己的警察和邮局,有自己的生杀大权,可以杀掉外界闯进来的不速之客。他们住在黑暗的森林中,以狩猎和采集为生,成为美国本土最西北角的主人。我们开车出城,往东两个小时就看到连绵的山脉,森林离车道越来越近,而山顶上闪着熠熠的雪光。这是喀斯咯特山脉的一部分,群山像青海的大山朝阴的一面,植被茂密;但比青海的山要高,要大,因为青海已经在高原上,所以山势不显得巍峨;而这里的平面海拔在500米以下,所以群山拔地而起,一整座横在你的面前,让人觉得没有办法翻越,只能感叹自己的渺小。 山中有鹿,有鱼,有钓鱼的人。山雪融化成小溪顺流而下,河水冷得像冰。这里的年降水量是2000-2500毫米;冬季的积雪可达0.9-3米厚。每年11月到来年4月,即使是新修的柏油公路也会封路,整座山岭像《闪灵》一样被封锁起来,除了冬眠的动物,估计没有人可以存活。春暖花开,充沛的积雪倾其而出,形成水流湍急的Baker river。周边的生态环境被保护起来,就是North Cascades国家公园。 开车沿着盘山公路上山,到半山腰可以看见雄伟的雪山峰顶。路边的标识牌告诉我们,这里的地形是被冰川改变的,河水逆流,形成了湖泊。湖中有小岛,岛上有松林,像拉萨到林芝的一条公路,又像新疆的喀纳斯,但喀纳斯与这里相比,秀丽有余而壮丽不足。远望最高的Colonial Peak,云山雾罩,看不到峰顶。 海在山的那一边,下山来马上就是雨后清新的城市景象,跨海大桥,玻璃窗后的灯火。以后我若住到这里来,一定要刻一枚闲章,叫“山河湖海”,因为这足以概括这个城市的所有历史与痕迹。
Posted in 书籍旅游
Tagged national park, north cascades, seattle, shining, twilight city, 国家公园, 暮光之城, 西雅图, 闪灵
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