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Tag Archives: 2012
2012,在黄石公园(三)
吃过晚饭已经是8点。天黑黑,我们从蒙大拿州的公园北门一路奔袭到怀俄明州的公园南门。突然副驾上的Dan大喊:Stopstopstopstop!!!!我还以为撞到了什么不明生物,捂住眼睛开始大叫,Grace一脚紧急刹车,颤颤悠悠地停了下来。对面一辆车也停在那里,我们发现一只体积大如大象的野水牛从我们身边慢悠悠地走过,还是逆行…… 黄石公园的野生动物保护得极好,从19世纪野水牛被猎杀到成为濒危物种到今天的漫山遍野随处可见,自然保护区功不可没。在Lonely Planet版黄石和大提顿公园的介绍中说,在黄石公园最值得做的事情,看老忠实喷泉只占第二,第一呢?是在Lamar河谷看野生动物。 从黄石公园的南门进发,到Grand Village之后往北走,沿着黄石河逆流而上,翻过《2012》中爆发过的火山,我们的面前突然出现了一片开阔地带,这就是美丽的Lamar河谷。 Lamar valley绵延的河谷像色彩缤纷的画面,远处高山的雪水滋润了几千亩的土地。野牛在这里奔腾栖息,麋鹿在林间跳跃。雨后的群山与平缓的河谷之间,洗刷出一道巨大的彩虹。动物真会选地方,把黄石公园最美丽、最肥沃的地方当成了自己的家,在这里繁衍后代,生生不息。 东线除了Lamar Valley以外,翻山途中的几座瀑布也是黄石历史上重要的一笔。19世纪,当第一批探险家到达这里,他们被山涧湍急的瀑布和激流所吸引,把它们命名为Upper Falls和Lower Falls,意思是上游瀑布和下游瀑布。有画家将这幅美景画成了油画,带回了文明地区,这是黄石第一次引起人们的注意,也开启了兴建国家公园的最初灵感。这样的美景今天仍然存在,随身拍来就像明信片一般美丽;而具体的地理环境与100多年前却有着细微差别,因为作为新生的地质带,黄石是非常活跃的地质地区,侵蚀作用仍然不断对这片土地进行着修改,直至峡谷变得越来越宽,越来越深,越来越长,而瀑布变得越来越湍急。 今天的瀑布与莫兰的油画对比图