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Tag Archives: 转山
《转山》:在西藏的时光
文/王小心 给一个朋友讲西藏。问:为什么那么多人都想去西藏?答:因为在那样的环境中,人的状态会变得不一样。独自行走,高原平缓,空气稀薄,阳光如酒。人因为在这样的环境中而抛弃了大都市的自我禁闭和伪装,变得心胸宽敞,信任他人。我们容易与陌生人敞开心扉,与不相识的背包客结伴而行,在街角一坐半天晒太阳,在偏远的寺院和喇嘛聊天。这是自然赋予人的变化,正如人类的歌声到了高原上就变得高亢嘹亮,人类的的眼神到了高原上就变得坚韧不拔。这些风蚀刀刻出来的痕迹,是安于城市一角的我们所追求的,由于难以见到而变得孤独,由于孤独而变得更为壮丽。 台湾同学张书豪因为要完成哥哥的遗愿而骑行滇藏线,路上碰到许多危险、朋友,亲情、友情。我理解他的选择,死去的人往往给活着的人带来许多变化,赎罪也好,内疚也好,励志也好,思念也好,人往往找到一个理由把自己的生活放大,让自己的心灵在某种寂寞和自虐中得到升华。那些平时领略不到的风景,壮美的山川,风幡旌旗,猎猎西风,会让我们的伤口仿佛被冰镇了一样;海拔5000米的高原和风雪,默默无言的修行尼姑,一个接一个的磕长头,会按捺住我们沸腾的痛苦。张书豪为哥哥在高原的顶端放飞风马,而我们觉得自己得到了救赎,那个脏的自己被洗干净晾晒在阳光下。 这就是我们要去西藏和一切艰险壮丽的地方赋予我们的礼物。 有人抱怨这里的故事把滇藏线夸张得太难,从而打消了许多驴友骑行的念头。这确实是电影的缺点之一,尤其是李晓川的重伤情节更显得过于戏剧性,与相对纪实性的风格显得格格不入。但我知道,很多夸大的情节是真实的,或至少是源于真实的。在藏区住过一年的我知道环境给人的心理带来的变化,从而使许多不可能的故事变得可能:人生如梦,在那里,你是自己的试验品。